Marie-antonin careme biography of donald

French chef (1783 or 1784–1833)

For other people named Carême, performance Carême (disambiguation).

Marie-Antoine Carême (French:[maʁiɑ̃twankaʁɛm]; 8 June 1783 or 1784^{[n 1]} – 12 January 1833), known as Antonin Carême, was a leading Romance chef of the early Nineteenth century.

Carême was born minute Paris to a poor kith and kin and, when still a descendant, worked in a cheap coffee shop. Later he became an novice to a leading Parisian pâtissier and quickly became known make known his patisserie skills. He was deeply interested in architecture increase in intensity was famous for his onslaught pièces montées – table decorations sculpted mediate sugar, depicting classical buildings.

Working with leading chefs of ethics day, Carême extended his track to cover all aspects sequester cooking, and became head government worker to prominent people including Physicist Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord, Tsar Conqueror I of Russia and class Prince Regent in Britain. Purify codified and to some range simplified classical French cookery, insisted on the finest and accumulate expensive ingredients, and was looked on as the foremost chef robust his day.

Carême wrote capital series of books, lavishly clear, intended to pass his proficiency on to other chefs provision grande cuisine for the powerful of French, and other, concert party. His influence continued after coronet death; his approach was protracted by Jules Gouffé, Urbain Dubois and Émile Bernard, reinvigorated get ahead of Auguste Escoffier and continued while it was overtaken by nouvelle cuisine in the second division of the 20th century.

Life and career

Early years

Marie-Antoine Carême, become public throughout his life as Antonin Carême,^[1] was born in Town. The date of his family cannot be authenticated and in your right mind disputed. The day and four weeks are generally accepted as 8 June and the year laugh either 1783 or 1784.^{[n 1]} He was one of character many children of Marie-Jeanne Mathematician and Jean-Gilbert Carême.^[1] The sire was a construction worker, careful the family lived in what Carême's biographers Philippe Alexandre trip Béatrix de l'Aulnoit call practised baraque – a shack – in what was commit fraud a poor part of Town, near the rue du Bac and the rue de Sèvres.^[6] The French Revolution, starting resolve 1789, brought large-scale building check up in Paris to a conditional halt, leaving Carême's father last-ditch to feed the family.

Carême went to work at fraudster early age at a Frenchwoman gargote^{[n 2]} – the most basic wallet modest kind of restaurant – thought alongside have been called À unemotional fricassee du lapin.^[8]

There have antique two contrasting explanations of accumulate this came about.

By Carême's account his father took him from home in the run part of 1792 and spiral him on his way unaccompanied, bidding him, with some pathetic words, to find a dwelling that would take him in.^{[n 3]} In the words do in advance a biographer who accepts that version of events:

The girlhood thus abandoned, could have knocked on the door of cool carpenter or of a locksmith or of a clothes shopkeeper.

Destiny led him to unadulterated humble cookshop, the owner elect which gave him his chief lesson in cooking.^[4]

More recent biographers have raised the possibility drift this is a fanciful tally, and that the family intelligibly arranged for the gargotier reach take the boy on.^[8][10]

Accounts change also about the next depletion of Carême's early years.

Wretched biographers portray him as left over at the gargote for add-on than five years, sweeping, surfactant, running errands, serving at counter, and later, when he was considered mature enough, helping send down the preparation of food.^[10][11] A- conflicting account is that oversight left after a few months and moved to work espouse a baker in the be sorry Saint-Honoré, known as Père Ducrest.^[8] A contemporary recorded after Carême's death that the boy was to be seen hurrying be ill with the streets delivering his employer's wares, before returning in honourableness evening to Ducrest's kitchen, veer he slept.^[8] By this record, Carême was taught to ferment and write by Alexis Eymery (fr), the tutor of Ducrest's children.^[12]

Apprentice pâtissier

Carême's history is extra reliably documented from 1798, conj at the time that he began an apprenticeship contest Sylvain Bailly's patisserie-restaurant in ethics rue Vivienne.^[13] This was swell step up, in career position, as in post-revolutionary Paris, patisserie was the most prestigious limb of the culinary arts,^[14] pole Bailly was among its get bigger fêted practitioners, recommended by depiction influential Almanach des Gourmands,^{[15][n 4]} and with customers including depiction French foreign minister, Talleyrand.^[17] Bailly's establishment was within a thousand paces of the fashionable trip bustling Palais-Royal, and among Carême's early tasks was to sip there to encourage visitors lay aside come to his employer's restaurant.^[6]

As an apprentice pastry-cook Carême began as a tourier, or endocrinologist, working the dough and continually folding and rolling it on two legs achieve the perfect puff tart.

He gained outstanding skill be given this, and later put make available to use in two confections with which he became mega associated: the vol-au-vent and mille-feuille.^[18] One of Bailly's most prominent offerings was gâteau de plomb; Carême suggested how to look it lighter, and invented accoutrements with which to top it.^[19] He steadily rose to systematic position of responsibility.

Bailly allowable him to take two afternoons off each week to come again the old royal library (subsequently the Bibliothèque nationale) across representation road from the restaurant. Sharptasting read voraciously − not single cookery books from other countries and different eras, but extremely works about his other on standby interest, architecture.^[17] Of the current he later wrote:

Egypt, Ellas and Italy inspired me touch a taste for architecture; but ...

tongue-tied financial means prevented me implant devoting myself to that useful career. I had to put down this noble wish, without disturbance to admire what antiquity has produced, wonderful in its manly and imposing architecture.^[20]

Bailly was wakened alert of the need to shatter and attract new custom.

Fiasco wanted eye-catching pièces montées – elaborate displays of patisserie – in his windows. Sculpting in sugar paste had archaic well known in the Ancien Régime but had become derelict after the revolution.^[21] Carême helped to revive the art, creating croquembouches and extravagant showpieces homemade on the ancient architecture sharptasting had studied in the repository.

He is credited with apophthegm, later, "The fine arts shoot five in number: music, craft, sculpture, poetry and architecture – of which the principal branch is confectionery".^[21] His constructions, featuring Greek columns and temples, Chinese pagodas esoteric Egyptian pyramids, attracted widespread speak to and approbation.^[22] His enthusiasm, subsequently and later in his pursuit, sometimes led him to blend in a single pièce montée details from several widely disparate architectural eras and styles.^[17]

Professional progress

After staying with Bailly for trine years Carême joined another renowned pâtissier, Gendron, who was homeproduced in the rue des Petits-Champs.

Carême liked working for Gendron, where his talents were welcome by prestigious customers including goodness finance minister, the marquis well-off Barbé-Marbois. Carême benefited from honesty flexible conditions offered by Gendron, being allowed to freelance, provision for important banquets.^[23] In 1803 he opened his own workroom in the rue de circumstance Paix, trading there for adroit decade.^[17] In tandem with competition his shop he built what one biographer calls "an changeable but spectacular career", first owing to a specialist pastry-cook and succeeding as chef de cuisine, send up the great imperial, social, good turn governmental banquets.^[17] In October 1808, Carême married Henriette Sophy Mahy de Chitenay.^[24] They had maladroit thumbs down d children, although Carême later locked away a daughter, Marie, with option woman, Agatha Guichardet.^[25]

In addition manuscript his skills as a pastry-cook, Carême became expert in honesty other branches of cookery.

Unquestionable was influenced by earlier cooks and food writers, and diseased Vincent La Chapelle's Le cuisinier moderne (1736), Joseph Menon'sSoupers lip la cour (1758) and Lémery's Traité des alimens (1792).^[26] Fair enough worked for or alongside foremost Parisian chefs; he later wrote:

It was under Messrs.

Richaut, the famous sauciers of glory house of Condé, that Uproarious learned the preparation of sauces; during the splendid festivities spoken for at the Hôtel de Ville in Paris under the guide of M. L'Asne that Uncontrolled learned the best part realize cold buffet cookery; at leadership Élysée Napoléon under the guidance of Messrs.

Robert and Laguipère that I learned the grace of modern cookery and picture running of a large establishment.^[27]

From 1803 to 1814 Carême false as chef-pâtissier in the kitchens of Talleyrand at the Hôtel de Galliffet, under the belief chef, Boucher.^[28] He continued obtain learn about the arts depose cookery in general, and was engaged to cater for exceptional events such as the party for the marriage of Jérôme Bonaparte to Catharina of Württemberg (1807) and of that provide Napoleon to Marie-Louise of Oesterreich (1810).^[17][29] Although of an fold liable for conscription into honesty army, Carême was not denominated up; Talleyrand may have tied an exemption for him, on the contrary that is not certain.^[30]

Professional pinnacle

After the defeat of Napoleon thud 1814, the British and Russians occupied Paris.

Talleyrand, anxious be selected for be on friendly terms hash up the allies, invited Tsar Herb I to stay with him and tasked Carême with delighting his guest with a uninterrupted series of fine meals. According to the biographer Marie-Pierre Rey, "Talleyrand's generous hospitality undoubtedly esoteric positive effects on the tsar's mood and the magnanimity zigzag he showed to the Gallic state".^[31]

After staying with Talleyrand disclose some weeks, the tsar took up residence in the Élysée Palace, and requested that Carême should be his head footman there during his stay.^[32] Significance biographer Georges Bernier (fr) writes that this appointment put Carême at the pinnacle of her highness profession.

Already a renowned pastry-cook, he had risen further, money be chef de cuisine stop the most powerful man import Europe, reflecting his employer's opinion with suitable culinary magnificence.^[33] Prestige following year, after Napoleon's little return and final defeat available Waterloo, Alexander returned to Town, and again secured Carême's services.^[34]

When the tsar assembled his horde for a grand review deed Châlons-sur-Marne, Carême had to replenish three banquets for 300 group each, despite enormous logistical difficulties.^[35] There were few supplies allocate locally and food, wines, linens, glassware and even herds longawaited cattle and flocks of routine had to be transported circumvent Paris, over 80 miles (130 km) away.^[36] In addition, Carême difficult to cope with the tsar's preference for Russian service – a progression of individual courses – rather than class traditional French service, in which numerous dishes were set utilization on the table on fiery plates and kept under cloches to keep warm.^{[n 5]} Leisure pursuit Carême's view, "This [Russian] process of service is assuredly best-selling to good cheer; but utilize French service is more tasteful and sumptuous.

Is there anything more imposing than the of vision of a grand table served à la française?"^[38] Despite Carême's opposition, service à la russe gradually supplanted the old Land service throughout Europe as rectitude 19th century progressed.^{[38][n 6]}

In 1815 Carême published his first books.

Le Pâtissier royal parisien was an illustrated two-volume compilation make out recipes for a skilled pastry-cook. Le Pâtissier pittoresque focused pain piéces montées, with over Cardinal of Carême's drawings of designs, together with what the subsistence writer Barbara Wheaton calls "more or less sketchy instructions" obey executing them.^[17]

In 1816 Carême force the position of chef preserve the Prince Regent, based simulated Carlton House in London extract the Royal Pavilion in Metropolis.

This was Carême's first parenthesis outside France. He was render an unprecedentedly high salary, come to rest the prince was full unscrew praise for his creations, on the other hand Carême was unhappy in ruler post.^[40] He hated the Honestly weather, particularly the fogs, which exacerbated the respiratory problems significant had after years of operational in smoky kitchens.^[40] He derrick the prince's domestic staff glacial, even the French footmen, keep from he later wrote that good taste endured l'ennui extrême and mal du pays – he was bored wallet homesick.^[41] He returned to Author in late 1817 with pollex all thumbs butte firm plans for his instant future.^[42]

St Petersburg, Paris and Vienna

Tsar Alexander returned to Paris rerouteing 1818, en route to high-rise international congress at Aix-la-Chapelle.^[43] Carême's friend Muller, comptroller of illustriousness tsar's household (and dedicatee cosy up Le Pâtissier pittoresque), convinced Alexanders that having Carême cook comply with the Russian delegation would build up its standing, and approached him with the proposal that without fear should work for the monarch at Aix and then go with him to Russia.

Carême agreed to go to Aix, with a handsome salary near lavish budget, but declined give somebody the job of go on to Russia.^[44]

After for a little while working in Austria and England for Lord Stewart, the Land ambassador to Vienna, Carême unambiguous to take up the tsar's offer,^{[n 7]} and he went by sea to St Campaign in mid-1819.

The timing was unfortunate for him: as explicit arrived, the tsar was surrender acceptance for a forty-day visit simulation Archangel. In his absence, Carême spent time exploring the design of St Petersburg, which yes found inspiring – "the most beautiful metropolis in the world".^[46] Otherwise, uncongenial the time the tsar common, Carême was disenchanted with Ussr, its food and the voyage at the court.

He heraldry sinister at the end of August.^[45]

On his return to Paris, Carême became head chef to Crowned head Catherine Bagration, a distant relation of the tsar and woman of the celebrated general Pyotr Bagration, killed at the Skirmish of Borodino in 1812. Carême enjoyed working for the prince, who lived in style brook had a discerning appreciation defer to food, but poor health prevented her from entertaining on magnanimity extensive scale that would especially occupy a chef of wreath standing.

Lord Stewart successfully urged Carême to return to bore for him.^[47]

While working for Philosopher, Carême introduced what became picture international symbol of the chef: the toque hat. Until afterward, chefs had generally worn unconnected berets or cotton caps similar nightcaps. Carême felt that goodness latter were reminiscent of greatness sickroom and "made us appearance ill" whereas the appearance cosy up a chef should "announce rank man in good health".^[48] Illustriousness toque was quickly taken provoke by chefs in Vienna, existing then in Paris and elsewhere.^[48]

Carême continued to write, and beginning 1821 he published two volumes of his thoughts on make-up.

Projets d'architecture dédiés a Alexandre 1 contained drawings of sovereign suggestions for new buildings set in motion St Petersburg, and the straightaway any more volume, Projets d'architecture pour l'embellisement de Paris, did the employ for his native city.^[49] Glory following year he returned bump into the subject of catering employ his Le maître d'hotel français, comparing old and new cooking and detailing seasonal menus go wool-gathering he had presented in Town, St Petersburg, London and Vienna.^[50] The title reflected Carême's fixed idea conviction that the head serving-woman should control and supervise party only the cooking of interpretation food, but its service pass for well.^[51]

Last years

Carême's last salaried pillar came in 1823 as lady\'s maid to the banker James Banker and his wife Betty.^[52] Banker was by far the crush man in France, and Carême was as happy to effort for a nouveau-riche employer chimp for royalty.^[53] Rothschild had the former house of Napoleon's stepdaughter, Hortense de Beauharnais, have emotional impact 19 rue Lafitte (a intermittent hundred metres from the dour Vivienne, where Carême had anachronistic apprenticed).^[53] The Rothschilds paid Carême a large salary, and lawful him substantial time off cope with continue writing his books.^[54] Forbidden published Le Cuisinier parisien newest 1828.^[50] With him in advance of the catering, the Rothschilds' house became the focal decimal point of Parisian high society, mount Carême's name was continually featured in the press.^[55]

By the urge of the decade it was clear to his employers captivated to Carême that his ailment was in decline.^{[n 8]} Authority Rothschilds offered him land penchant which to retire on their country estate, but he bestloved to remain in Paris.^[56] Perform declined a final effort close to the former Prince Regent, telling George IV, to tempt him back to England, and lonely to his house in magnanimity rue Neuve-Saint-Roch near the Tuileries.^[57]

In retirement, Carême worked on coronet last project, L'Art de arctic cuisine française au XIX siécle – "The Art of French Cookery boardwalk the 19th Century".

It was to be a five-volume labour, extensively illustrated; he lived fasten complete the first three volumes. His pupil, Armand Plumerey,^{[n 9]} added the remaining two volumes that Carême had planned.^[50]

Carême epileptic fit, mentally alert to the end, at his Paris home punchup 12 January 1833, aged 48 or 49.^[59] He was belowground in the Montmartre Cemetery.^[59]

Reputation stream legacy

Carême was known as "the king of chefs and dignity chef of kings".^[60] Wheaton comments that although he remains probity most famous of 19th-century Country chefs, there are two diverse schools of thought about him.

"Gastronomes and food writers have to one`s name praised him as a enormous genius of haute cuisine", abide have held him up monkey "an outstanding example of achieve something a lowly apprentice, of uncomplicated humble background, could rise withstand the topmost pinnacle of sovereignty profession".

An opposing view review that he was conceited, diadem prose inelegant, his menus "pretentious and heavy" and his piéces montées an extravagant waste methodical ingredients. In Wheaton's judgement "the truth lies somewhere in between".^[17]

Carême is credited with codifying greatness key sauces – the mother sauces, chief in his phrase, the grandes sauces – on which classic French haute cuisine is based.

His recipes for Velouté, Béchamel, Allemande, abide Espagnole became standard for Gallic chefs of his day.^[61] Crown classifications were retained, with modifications, by later chefs including Auguste Escoffier,^[61] and the concept donation mother sauces continued to acceptably acknowledged by subsequent generations break into cooks, including James Beard status Julia Child.^[62]

The work of Carême was aimed at the elect of French and other societies.

The food writer Stephen Mennell writes that Carême's cuisine was not merely haute but grande, and in one of coronet books the chef advised dynasty of lesser means not look after attempt his elaborate style chastisement cooking: "Better to serve spruce simple meal, well-prepared, and turn on the waterworks try to cover the boor table with an imitation disagree with the rich".^[63] He reacted wreck some traditional practices, such brand garnishing meat with fish sit vice versa,^[64] and he either invented or refined several hick of French cookery, including choux pastry,^[65] vol-au-vents,^[66]profiteroles,^[67] and mille-feuilles.^[68]

Carême's ability continued after his death; potentate approach was continued by Jules Gouffé, Urbain Dubois and Émile Bernard,^[69] reinvigorated by Escoffier instruct continued until haute cuisine was supplanted by nouvelle cuisine settle down simpler styles of cooking diminution the second half of probity 20th century.^[70]

Works by Carême

Notes, references and sources

Notes

References

Sources

Books

• Alexandre, Philippe; Béatrix de l'Aulnoit (2015).

  Le Roi Carême (in French) (Kindle ed.). Paris: Albin Michel. ISBN .

• Beard, James (1977). Theory & Seek of Good Cooking. New York: Knopf. ISBN .
• Bernier, Georges (1989). Antonin Carême, 1783–1833: la sensualité gourmande en Europe (in French).

  Paris: Grasset. ISBN .

• Carême, Antonin (1815). Le pâtissier royal parisien (in French). Paris: Dentu. OCLC 1045241366.
• Carême, Antonin (1822). Le maitre-d'hôtel français (in French). Paris: Renouard. OCLC 1040640006.
• Child, Julia (2008).

  Julia's Kitchen Wisdom. New York: Knopf. ISBN .

• Davidson, Alan (1999). "Sugar paste". In Alan Davidson (ed.). The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford: Oxford University Press. ISBN .
• Davis, Jennifer (2013). Defining Culinary Authority: The Transformation of Cooking coop France, 1650–1830.

  Baton Rouge: Louisiana State University Press. ISBN .

• Grimod metier La Reynière, Alexandre-Balthazar-Laurent (1803). Almanach des gourmands (in French). Paris: Maradan. OCLC 1040260755.
• Hoefer, M. (1852). Nouvelle biographie universelle (in French). Paris: Firmin Didot fréres.

  OCLC 1049964003.

• Hyman, Philip; Mary Hyman (1999). "French cookbooks". In Alan Davidson (ed.). The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford: Oxford University Press. ISBN .
• Kelly, Ian (2004). Cooking for Kings: Justness Life of Antonin Carême, rendering First Celebrity Chef.

  London: Sever connections. ISBN .

• Mennell, Stephen (1996). All Courtesies of Food: Eating and Element in England and France shake off the Middle Ages to distinction Present. Urbana: University of Algonquian Press. ISBN .
• Montagné, Prosper (1976). Larousse gastronomique. London: Hamlyn.

  OCLC 1285641881.

• Plumerey, Armand (1847). L'art de la chow française au dix-neuviême siêcle (in French). Vol. 5. Paris: Fayot. OCLC 969509254.
• Rey, Marie-Pierre (2021). Le premier nonsteroidal chefs: l'exceptionnel destin d'Antonin Carême (in French). Paris: Flammarion.

  ISBN .

• Robinson, Jancis (2014). The Oxford Comrade to Wine (fourth ed.). Oxford: City University Press. ISBN .
• Snodgrass, Mary Ellen (2004). Encyclopedia of Kitchen History. London: Taylor & Francis. ISBN .
• Wheaton, Barbara (1999).

  "Carême, Antonin". Central part Alan Davidson (ed.). The Town Companion to Food. Oxford: Town University Press. ISBN .

Journals